10 Street Style Trends From Men’s Fashion Week SS17

Cuban Collar Shirts

Cuban collars – those wide-open, almost notch-lapel like collars (connotative of Riviera chic, or acid trip Hawaiian shirts, depending on your reference points) – made their comeback in 2013, appearing on the SS14 runways of Louis Vuitton, Missoni and Canali.

But it’s only now, thanks to menswear’s relatively sluggish pace, that we’re seeing them actually hit the streets. It’s high time, too: airy, lightweight and a shade more refined than a crew neck T-shirt, these should top your holiday hit-list.

Men's Fashion Week Street Trends - Cuban Collar Shirts

Double Denim

Denim is back. (Not that it ever really went away.)

Despite reports that show denim sales on a steady decline, fashion weeks saw several of menswear’s finest – including one vlogging super-celebrity – turn out in the tough stuff.

We’re not just talking jeans either. But denim overshirts, Western jackets, boiler suits… the list goes on. If nothing else, the fact these shots were taken in muggy 20+ degree heat proves that not even denim’s durable, absolutely-not-breathable construction dulls its lasting appeal to menswear’s trendsetters.

Men's Fashion Week Street Trends - Double Denim


Luxury fashion, some would argue, is slowly falling to its knees, with blue chip brands like Burberry and Prada beginning to lose their foothold due to plummeting profits.

Other names, though, prove top-tier fashion’s influence is still writ large with designers such as Kim Jones (of Louis Vuitton) and Alessandro Michele (of Gucci) making things like embroidery – an adornment arguably most prevalent in frothy women’s couture and, you know, your nan’s wardrobe – a contemporary look for men.

Scenes outside SS17 shows saw embroidered shirts, jackets and jeans – proof that it’s time to get decorative.

Men's Fashion Week Street Trends - Embroidery

Statement Bombers

Remember when bomber jackets were ‘edgy’? When they still had something of that military vigour, and tapped into the inherent shock value of skinheads?

Well, designers have cottoned on to the fact that modern-day bombers – owing to their ubiquity – are about as edgy as a comfy fleece jacket. Leading to them creating a slew of fresh takes on the classic MA-1, which run the gamut from all-over printed versions to variations on the sukajan, or souvenir jacket.

We’re not saying plain bombers are dead and buried, but it might be time for some well-earned leave.

Men's Fashion Week Street Trends

Relaxed-Fit Trousers

They’re here. Finally. After what feels like an eternity (read: five years) of trumpeting wider-legged trousers as menswear’s new ‘thing’, we’re finally waking up to the myriad benefits of freeing our pins from compression garment fits.

Just in time for summer, too – a time of year when pulling on a pair of skinny jeans isn’t entirely unlike being subjected to a particularly cruel Spanish Inquisition torture method.

The SS17 circuit saw lightweight chinos, linen-blend trousers and denim all cut in looser (some tapered, some straight-leg) fits, proving Hedi Slimane’s legacy is finally withering. Your unmentionables have never been happier.

8 Of The Most Wearable Trends From London Collections Men SS17

All’s change in London. London Collections Men (by some accounts a mere shadow of its former self) saw just 57 designers partake in its latest showcase, compared to 77 this time last year.

In fact – owing to concerns that the current four-day standalone set-up might not be the menswear money-maker that it’s been made out to be in recent seasons – LCM SS17 was the last official London Collections Men as we know it, with organisers already having unveiled plans to rebrand the biannual showcase to London Fashion Week Men’s in time for its next outing.

But while the platform itself might be up for debate, there’s no denying the ideas it put forth were anything less than progressive. And perhaps – for those of us who can’t quite see ourselves getting kitted out in a glimmering viscose knit crop top and skirt two-piece (à la Pieter) or carrying off a midriff-baring top made up of little pieces of fabric made to look like cascading flower petals (à la Alex Mullins) – a little too progressive for everyday wear.

So we’ve sifted through menswear’s freshest collections, sectioning off the showpieces in order to share designers’ most wearable innovations instead.

Here’s what’s making waves:

Zip-Up Tracksuit Tops

It’s 2016, which means men everywhere want to dress like a roadman. But while recent seasons have seen designers focus their efforts on taking the sweatshirt-jogger combo upscale, the SS17 shows championed a different mid-layer: the zip-up tracksuit top.

Hot on the tail of brands already pushing the athletic essential (Gucci and Gosha Rubchinskiy among them), the tracksuit top cropped up – cut lean, and with a funnel neck – at Christopher Shannon and Topman Design and in a less sporty, slightly more luxe fabrication at Wales Bonner.

Time to ditch that hoodie.

LCM Trends ss17 - Track Tops

Christopher Shannon Christopher Shannon Topman Design Topman Design

Outfit Inspiration

Men's Track Top Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

scotch & soda 2016 asos asos 2016 zara ss16

Earth Tones

Neutrals are going nowhere. But in amongst the colder light neutrals (stone, light beige) that were threaded through AW16 collections this season were warmer hues like russet and tan.

Case in point: Danish-born Astrid Andersen swapped the acidic neons she’s built her name on for a much more muted palette of gold, clay and cocoa. Ditto Craig Green who continued his move away from the punchy primary hues he found fame with for taupe and chestnut brown.

This is good news. Because a) neutrals are versatile and usually play well together, and b) they won’t wash you out to the point of making you transparent.

LCM Trends ss17 - Earth Tones

Astrid Andersen barbour e. tautz oliver spencer

Outfit Inspiration

Men's Warm earth Tone Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

massimo dutti 2016 river island high summer 2016 river island high summer 2016 zara ss16

Graph & Windowpane Checks

Savile Row’s say in the way men dress might be waning, but the pattern synonymous with the historic street’s tailoring isn’t.

Checks, particularly wide windowpane and compact graph checks, were writ large across London’s SS17 output – and although some of the pattern’s appearances were business-as-usual (applied to Turnbull & Asser’s tailored separates and jumpsuits, for example), checks emerged in some unexpected places, too.

Like at Astrid Andersen, where graph check covered a longline shirt-coat and matching boxy trousers. Or at Agi & Sam, where a tailored graph check trouser and windowpane check tailored jacket came with a cropped bomber jacket layered on top.

So check yourself if you think this pattern’s just for suiting.

LCM Trends ss17 - Graph & Windowpane Checks

agi & sam astrid andersen turnbull & asser Joseph

Outfit Inspiration

Men's Graph and Windowpane Checks Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

house of fraser 2016 el burgues ss16 Le Chateau ss15 new look ss15


One of menswear’s time-honoured spring/summer motifs made a triumphant return this season, with designers as disparate as Oliver Spencer, Sibling and Tiger of Sweden showing stripes every which way.

They were vertical and horizontal, broad and pin-thin, and, although maybe lacking the track-stopping impact of some of this season’s other prints (florals especially), proved themselves again an easy way of adding visual texture to warm-weather looks.

LCM Trends ss17 - Stripes

e. tautz lou dalton sibling tiger of sweden

Outfit Inspiration

Men's Striped Clothing Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

reiss ss16 selected homme ss16 h&m 2016 bal ss16


Perhaps recognising the redundancy of seasonal wardrobes in a world plagued by climate change, this season (incidentally a total washout) was all about the topcoat.

Why This Season’s Most Masculine Look Is Unleashing Your Feminine Side

White Tie/Cravate Blanche

This shindig couldn’t get fancier if Drake and Iggy Azalea were co-hosting. White tie is a level up from even black tie in formality – and no, it does not mean ‘a white tie’. What it does mean is a black tailcoat (not to be confused with a morning coat – see Morning Dress) and matching black trousers, a white waistcoat, a wing collar shirt, a bow tie, and a pair of patent shoes. If you don’t have these in your rotation, get thee hence to the hire shop. This is not a dress code to be trifled with.

The good news is that invitations which stipulate this are extremely rare unless you are a Ferrero Rocher-munching diplomat or extremely rich and/or posh, in which case you’ve probably got all of the above in your rotation anyway. Also, a top hat is not considered strictly necessary nowadays, so you can let that one slide.

A word (well, two) of warning: ‘formal attire’ can technically refer to the above for evening events, or morning dress (see below) for daytime. Chances are, your hosts just mean ‘smart’. But check yourself before you deck yourself out.

Men's White Tie Outfit Inspiration

Morning Dress

The daytime equivalent of white tie, hence why it’s also referred to as ‘formal day dress’. You should be wearing: a morning coat with tails in black or grey, grey trousers (or grey and black striped), a waistcoat (usually light to mid-grey or beige), a double-cuff shirt with turn-down collar (usually white but blue or pink is acceptable), a tie or cravat, polished black shoes and a top hat.

Again, you can’t really mess around with this kind of thing. At least not if you want to get into the royal enclosure at Ascot. Or the wedding album.

Men's Morning Dress Outfit Inspiration

Black Tie

Or ‘dinner jackets’, ‘dinner dress’, ‘tuxedo’, ‘cravate noire’. Again, it doesn’t mean ‘a black tie’: it means a dinner suit, or a tuxedo if you’re American. This is materially different from a black suit, with contrast lapels in a fabric like grosgrain or silk and braiding down the leg. If you’re the kind of person who insists on saying dinner suit rather than tux, then yours should be midnight blue, which is historically more fitting of the code and looks like a richer black under artificial light.

You’ll also want a dress shirt with a turn-down collar and fancy front of some kind, usually with detachable studs and cufflinks instead of buttons. At a push, you could probably get away with a normal white shirt; a wing collar shirt is strictly speaking for white tie.

Shoes-wise, reach for highly polished Oxfords, although patent is acceptable. The dinner suit started out as a more relaxed alternative to tails, but for most of us today, it’s as smart as it gets. Slippers are – unsurprisingly – really for ‘at home’ invitations.

Can you wear a black suit? Well, you shouldn’t – as we’ve outlined above, it’s not the same thing at all. And know full well that if you do, someone may ask you to fetch them another drink, or transport a top-secret cargo across Europe in an Audi.

A (black) cummerbund is not essential, especially if you have a spare hand to hold your opera tickets. But it can do a good job of stopping your shirt showing between your jacket button and trouser waistband, as can a black waistcoat.

‘Semi-formal attire’ is upper-class code for black tie so, again, depending on the circles you’re moving in, this could actually just mean smart-casual. Another reason to pick up the phone before you gussy up.

Men's Black Tie Dress Code Outfit Inspiration

Eveningwear/Evening Dress

Really this means black tie, but it’s also sometimes used (incorrectly) to refer to cocktail attire (see below). Unless it’s preceded by ‘full’, in which case it means white tie. Hit up your hosts to clarify.

Black Tie Optional

One of the most misleading codes. Your hosts are going to wear it, and want you to wear it too, but they’re politely giving you an out in case you can’t, or won’t, rent or buy. That doesn’t mean you should take it. Unless it’s really impossible, just wear black tie.

A normal suit with a long tie – AKA ‘Hollywood black tie’ – is more acceptable here. But it should be as close to a dinner suit in DNA as possible.

Men's Hollywood Black Tie Outfit Inspiration

Black Tie Alternative/Creative

Normally, black tie is asking you to operate within strictly defined parameters to create a uniform effect. It’s not – out of respect for your hosts and the occasion – the time to flex your fashion muscles.

This, however, is an invitation – albeit an annoyingly vague one – to do something a little more unusual than the typical penguin suit. That could be a fabric like velvet, a colour or pattern, or some other flourish. Trainers? Maybe. How far you can push it really depends on the hosts and the context.

If your invitation says ‘with a twist’, then you may want to re-evaluate your friendship with these ‘zany’ people. Jeeves, fetch my shotgun.

Men's Black Tie Alternative/Creative Dress Code Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

gieves and hawkes aw14 reiss aw14 bagozza ss15 Dolce and Gabbana aw14

8 Reasons To Be More Like Idris Elba

1. He Knows The Trends That Work For Him

Time’s a great teacher. With over four decades under his belt, Elba has learned to trim the fat from his wardrobe, refining it so that timeless staples are kept stocked high and flash-in-the-pan fare is weeded right out. You won’t find any sliders, extreme longline tees or cross-eye-inducing prints here.

That doesn’t mean Elba avoids trying his hand at trends, though. He just tries on them on for size in a subtle way that doesn’t compromise his larger frame. A bold trouser here, a coloured shoe there; this is a man who’s mastered the art of deploying bold prints, hues and fabrics in small bursts, without letting his signature style suffer.


Idris Elba - Trend Outfit Lookbook

2. He Can Wear The Hell Out Of A Suit

There are many reasons why Elba was tipped by bookies to succeed Daniel Craig as the new 007. And stellar acting chops aside, we’d like to think it’s because he looks as sharp in a suit as any other of Her Majesty’s MI6 agents.

The key to Elba’s formalwear success is his secret weapon: a good tailor on speed dial. Taller than average and muscular in stature, Elba knows his frame needs some expert input to looks its best. Which is why each suit, whether a Prince of Wales check or midnight blue tux, has been nipped and tucked to perfectly flatter his form.

Any agent in the making knows that a few millimetres shaved off the sleeve or the leg makes all the difference – which is why you’ll never see his trousers pooling or his cuffs around his palms.


Idris Elba - Suits and Tuxedos Outfit Lookbook

3. His Off-Duty Is On Point

Elba doesn’t stunt solely on the red carpet: his downtime looks are just as smartly put-together, bridging the gap between buttoned-up and casual as effortlessly as the man himself moves from big-screen acting to basement club deck-spinning.

It could be a fitted polo shirt with slim-fit chinos, or a cashmere jumper with selvedge denim and brown Derbies – whatever the smart-casual combo, Elba knows exactly how to dress comfortably without having to curb his style.

Oh and kudos to one of the very few men over forty who’s managed to master the ‘mankle’.

Idris Elba Casual/Off-Duty Outfit Lookbook

Where To Shop For A Wedding Guest Suit

It’s that time of year again. The stags are a distant memory (if a memory at all), the several modes of travel and overpriced hotel suites are booked and you’re gradually coming to terms with how broke everyone’s weddings are leaving you.

All that remains to be decided is what you’ll wear on the big day (or days) itself. Which – unless you’re prepared to dedicate the few remaining free weekends you have this year to trawling shops – isn’t exactly a cakewalk.

So we’ve done the grunt work instead, filtering through this season’s wedding wear to give you the lowdown on the brands doing it best. From charcoal grey to bright checks, safe-bet suits to statement-makers, these are the names to note down.

Moss Bros

You might remember Moss Bros as the place where you first rented suits as a spotty-faced teen, but the high street tailor has come of age this season.

Despite (or perhaps because of) a heritage of over 150 years, Moss Bros has struggled in recent times to assert itself as a tailoring destination. But 2016 marks the British institution’s triumphant return to the formalwear foray, with an expanded offering (which now includes top tailoring names including Ermenegildo Zegna and Hardy Amies alongside Moss Bros’ in-house lines) and a bespoke tailoring service, Tailor Me, set to launch later this year.


Moss Bros’ main draw is its affordability. With suits starting from as little as £100, this brand’s a no-brainer for those on a strict budget. Wedding-ready options include grey and navy styles available as two- or three-piece suits, but you can pick up a handful of bolder options including petrol blue and burgundy rig-outs, too.

Best For: A suit that leaves you enough to spend on a great gift. (You know you have to get a gift too, right?)

Moss Bros Suits

Moss Bros Suits

Moss Bros Suits

Key Styles

 Recommended Wedding Guest Suits For Men


What To Do (And What Not To Do) To Boss Men’s Fashion Week

 Speak To Everyone

From emerging designers to big-time bloggers, snap-happy photographers to snappy PRs, fashion week is a breeding ground for important contacts, so don’t be stuck up and always remember your manners. It’s a very small world and there’s every chance snubbing someone could come back to bite you in the proverbial – whether that’s being blacklisted from a show or denied entry to a party – so it pays to make an effort to get off on the right foot.

That rules applies especially in the case of fashion week’s unsung heroes: security guards. Charm them, and you could stand a chance of getting in without a ticket.

Don’t: Wear Sunglasses To A Show

Not even if you’re sitting front row, not even if you’re the editor of some obscure Japanese menswear magazine, not even if it’s your own show.

The primary purpose of sunglasses is to keep the sun out of your eyes, and, last time we checked, the majority of show venues come equipped with a roof and four walls. As hard as you might try, you won’t look like Keith Richards, you’ll look like Mugatu fromZoolander, so remove the Ray-Bans and leave indoor shades to Lagerfeld.

Mugatu - Zoolander

Do: Eat

It may sound simple, but it’s harder than you think. Fashion weeks might serve up rivers of free booze but the canapés come in such microscopic portions that a flap of a passing coattail is all it takes to send them flying.

Also sometimes – amidst the hubbub – you literally just forget. So get a square meal before you start hammering the champagne, even if it’s just a few bags of some desperate food sponsor’s popcorn or fruit snacks that taste suspiciously like fragrance. Because jeans look good splattered with paint, not vomit.

Don’t: Go Too Crazy With Your Outfit

Just because everyone’s taking pictures of you, it doesn’t mean you’re dressed well. Take it from us: sauntering around like a time-travelling Victorian astronaut will only lead to you getting savagely ripped apart online.

There’s nothing wrong with wearing a statement print or an experimental fit, but stop short of peacocking/piling it all on at once. Street style photographers worth being papped by look for style that other people can relate to, so you need to be comfortable and confident in what you’re wearing to win real kudos.


Don’t: Wear A Full Suit

The full-on sartorial look that’s dominated recent menswear fashion weeks is dying out. Less dandy, more dressed-down, a tee, jeans and white trainers are better suited to menswear’s current vibe than a tweed three-piece and double monks. Even David Gandy’s loosening up.

For a look that’s bang up to date, try swapping your bomber for a souvenir jacket. The backstory to this punchy style dates back to the end of World War II in Japan, when US servicemen commissioned jackets embroidered with a mix of Eastern and Western iconography, like tigers and eagles. They’re an easy way to spice up a simple outfit, and with such epic origins, you’ll always have something to make small talk about.


Do: Take A Portable Smartphone Charger

Is there anything better than being the first person to ‘gram a show’s best outfit and watching the likes roll in? Probably a lot, but in terms of fashion weeks, it’s the pinnacle.

Still, your battery can drain quickly from all that filtering, hashtagging and Boomeranging, so in the interest of staying juiced, it’s worth keeping a portable battery pack handy. A lot more practical than trying to make a cappuccino last an hour in Starbucks while you hog a corner plug socket.

Anker Astro E1 Compact Portable Charger, available at priced £11.99.

Anker Astro E1 Compact Portable Charger

How To Dress With Sprezzatura

We’ve all heard the term bandied about. And most of us have read its verbose definition: “a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it.”

Some of us might even know that sprezzatura was coined by Italian Renaissance author Baldassare Castiglione in the 17th century, who used it to describe courtiers in his courtesy book The Book of the Courtier.

The learned amongst us will also know that sprezzatura is definitely not the trussed-up peacocks of Pitti, who burst flamboyantly onto the international menswear stage each year for a four-day period.

So what is it exactly?

The thought process behind sprezzatura is the same thinking behind all sensible approaches to styling menswear. As tailor Hardy Amies put it, “A man should look as if he’s bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them”. This is sprezzatura.

The original definition of sprezzatura disappeared from menswear conversations until around 2006, when street style pioneer Scott Schuman (AKA The Sartorialist) started making his name snapping inimitably stylish Italian gentlemen.

This then led to an increased interest in Pitti Uomo, a trade show that had previously been seen as staid, and so began a domino effect, with old-school Italian brands like Boglioli, Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana gaining stockists and column inches as more and more men sought to emulate the Pitti look.

Then Pitti started to eat itself. People realised they stood a better chance of being photographed at Pitti if they out-preened others, creating a rare breed of street style subject known as the ‘Pitti peacock’.

Pitti Peacocks

Men originally known for their mastery of sprezzatura began distancing themselves from what it had become. The Sartorialist noted in a post from 2008 titled ‘The New Sprezzatura?’ that “It seems the Italians are dying to find new Agnelli-isms” after spotting a man with both monk-strap fastenings undone. He signed off with, “I’m not condoning, just reporting”.

When we asked tailor and Instagram don  about the term, he said “Sprezzatura is an error that makes an outfit stylish, [and] is not related to clothes but to the personality of the man”.

Simon Crompton of noted in his post about sprezzatura that, given the original usage of the phrase, it was “Bizarre, then, that the term is used in reference to strutting peacocks at Pitti, whose striving for style is so obvious”. However, he did point out that sprezzatura was still achievable – just maybe not via the moves so often deployed on social media.

Go-To Sprezzatura Moves

So how do you introduce some (admittedly vague) sprezzatura to your style? Glad you asked…

The Oversized Narrow Tie Blade

As this is a style of accessory rather than a specifically misplaced item, it’s somewhat easier to pull off. You won’t really have to think about it while it’s on.

Consider it your gateway to the world of sprezzatura.

Leave the narrow blade of your tie longer - Sprezzatura

The Wristwatch Over Shirt Cuff

This is, to be frank, a move that could be seen as preening. But sprezzatura is about studied nonchalance, and that can only be achieved through repetition.

We suggest wearing your watch in this manner until it becomes natural to you. Once that happens, it’ll appear natural to others too.

Wear Your Watch over your Cuff - Sprezzatura

10 Style Lessons From Pitti Uomo 90

1. Make Your Pocket Square The Point

Have we ever seen a pocket square look this good? Probably not. A bit of a Friday afternoon job for most, choosing a pocket square is usually the last thing a man does when styling a suit – it’s a plain white style lazily tossed into a chest pocket, or a polka dot take that doesn’t sit well the pinstripe jacket it’s sitting in. Or, you know, it’s paisley.

Here, however, it’s the accessory that makes the statement. Cushioned amongst a classic menswear palette of grey and blue, its espresso, gold, sky blue and white print pops in the best possible way. Props.

Pitti Uomo Men's Style/Fashion/Outfit

2. Keep Checks In Check

Patterned tailoring is a powerful thing. Unlike its plain-colour brother, it won’t see your suit immediately drowned out by several others that are – bar a slightly different lapel style – essentially the same, snooze-inducing navy or grey two-piece.

But as unlikely style god Voltaire put it, with great power, comes great responsibility. Which means if you’re plumping for patterned tailoring, you need to cushion the impact – as below.

By opting for a suit with a neutral base, the powder blue of the contrasting check lands perfectly. Making this man’s look enough to catch your eye, without making it sore.

Pitti Uomo Men's Style/Fashion/Outfit

3. Be Bold

Bold blue suits can be difficult to pull off.

No one wants to look like their taking their style cue from the Smurfs, so if you’re venturing beyond navy, try cobalt blue. It’s brighter than navy but not so bright as a klaxon colour like azure or cornflower blue.

Consider losing the tie, too; head-to-toe colour is a statement in and of itself, so adding in any non-essential accessories can quickly lead to overkill.

Finally, get a tan. Bolder colours work best against a richer backgrounds, so if you haven’t been soaking up the rays then swerve this one until you’re a little more sun-kissed. Or fake it.

Pitti Uomo Men's Style/Fashion/Outfit

4. Mix And Match Neutrals

Tkae a look at the picture below. Notice anything different about the man in it?

He’s not staring back at the camera. He’s not staring back at the camera because – just like his outfit – he’s cool as. If you don’t start seeing this image crop up alongside dictionary definitions of sprezzatura in future, we’ll eat our tasselled loafers.

Pitti Uomo Men's Style/Fashion/Outfit

5. Dial Down The Pink

Not all peacocking is a p*sstake. As much as we like to poke fun at the outlandish looks donned by Pitti’s more attention-starved attendees, there are those that know how to draw all the camera lenses, and none of the criticism.

Like this duo. By opting for muted pastel pink over saturated hues, their look reads moreBrideshead Revisited than Brighton seaside deck chair.

Extra points for wearing hats without looking like utter tools.

Pitti Uomo Men's Style/Fashion/Outfit

6. Contain Pattern-Clashing

Don’t believe the hype, and by ‘hype’ we mean the countless online guides, eBooks and forum threads professing to tell you the rules for clashing patterns – because there aren’t any.

The only true test of seeing whether clashing patterns look good together is by, well, putting them together, and then giving them a good ol’ eyeball. The only ‘rule’ is that you shouldn’t truss yourself up head-to-toe in them. Because that would make you look like a walking patchwork quilt.

Instead, do as this savvy man has done, and keep your pattern-clashing to one half of your silhouette.

Pitti Uomo Men's Style/Fashion/Outfit